Seville · Andalucía
The golden heart of the south, orange blossom, Moorish palaces and flamenco that starts when the sun goes down.
Seville is Andalucía with the volume turned up, a city of orange trees and bitter-orange marmalade, of Moorish palaces and baroque churches, of flamenco that begins late and tapas that never seem to end. The Guadalquivir slides through the middle of it all, once carrying galleons home from the New World. Wander the old town and you lose the map on purpose, and that is exactly the point.
What to Do
The Real Alcázar
Begun by Moorish rulers and embellished for centuries by Christian kings, the Real Alcázar is a dreamscape of horseshoe arches, carved stucco and reflecting pools. Lose an afternoon in its gardens, palms, fountains and orange trees laid out for slow, scented wandering. It remains a working royal palace to this day.
Plaza de España
Built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, this sweeping half-moon of brick and ceramic is Seville at its most theatrical. Hand-painted azulejo alcoves honour every Spanish province, a canal curves beneath tiled bridges, and the whole thing glows amber as the sun drops.
Flamenco & Triana
Flamenco was born in these streets, and nowhere feels more alive than across the river in Triana, the old potters' and gypsy quarter. Catch an intimate tablao where the guitar, the song and the stamp of heels collide into pure emotion the Spanish call duende.
Tapas & the Old Town
Sevillanos turned grazing into an art form. Drift through the orange-scented lanes of Barrio Santa Cruz from bar to bar, a plate of jamón ibérico with crisp picos, a dish of olives and a cold vermut on the rocks, until the evening melts into one long, delicious crawl.
Did You Know
La Giralda was built as the minaret of a 12th-century mosque. Inside, 35 gentle ramps, not stairs, were designed so the muezzin could ride to the top on horseback.
The Real Alcázar is the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe, and stood in as the kingdom of Dorne in Game of Thrones.
Around 30,000 bitter-orange trees perfume Seville's streets each spring. Most of the fruit is shipped to Britain, where it becomes marmalade.
Our Little Black Book
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